The nearby arched 11-meter-high Wumen Bridge spanning the Waicheng River provided excellent views not just of the surrounding history but also of passing river traffic. Fifty steps led up each side of this almost thousand-year-old structure, the highest ancient bridge remaining in Suzhou. The scene was enhanced by the eight-sided, seven-floor Ruigang Pagoda rising 53.6 meters above Panmen, for centuries an iconic symbol of the city. Though considerably restored over time, it originated during the Three Kingdoms Period (220-280) when King Sun Quan of the Wu ordered its construction as a gesture of respect to his mother.

As always, during my time in Suzhou, waterway activities kept me focused. Boats were frequently temporary homes for entire families of canal people. Pot plants decorated the wheelhouses, cooking equipment stacked beside small kitchens. Many barges carried bicycles.

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