Hida beef buns, the staple snack in Takayama. [Photo provided to China Daily]

But in Takayama, especially in this morning market, the small town seemed to brim over with laughing, laid back trades people who didn't seem to be out to cheat the tourists. The ancient town might be geared in parts toward earning money from travelers, but the people make sure you'll have a good time. Takayama also has every-thing Ineed for a relaxing day. I tried the "Doctor Fish", where you dip your feet in water and tiny fishes come to them to nibble away your dead skin. It felt weird and ticklish, but my feet felt like a baby's buttock afterwards. Most foot onsen are free, and located in street corners. But for a full bathing experience, the neighboring onsen village is a must.

Less than an hour's ride by the Nohi bus, I arrived at Hir-ayu Onsen, one of Okuhida Onsen-go's hot spring villa-ges, which is nearest to down-town Takayama. Japanese onsen hotels are typically expensive. The best way to have a relatively cheap Japanese bath is to find a day-trip bathing house that is not part of a hotel service. Luckily in Hirayu, I found Hirayunomori, which only cost 500 yen for the bath, and 100 yen for a locker to store my clothes and valuables.

My venture to this onsen was by far the most exhilarating experience on this trip. After buying my ticket on the auto machine, I was directed to remove my shoes, and I randomly selected a pot on the shoe shelf. I then proceed-ed to the check-in counter where I received a wristband containing a key for the locker. After placing all my stuff into the assigned locker, the fun began. The men's and women's onsen are separate. There are multiple temperature baths to choose from, both indoor and outdoor that comes with a garden.

It was very relaxing. There is no need to be shy about being naked in the onsen, since everyone else is in the same "birthday suit". When done, one can eat and shop and have a shut-eye in the rest room. The onsen is Japan's national passion, and for me perhaps, the deepest plunge that I have taken in its mild and unique culture.

If you go

Takayama

First take the Centair express from the Centair Airport to Nagaya Station, then take the JR express train to Takayama for about 40 minutes. Ticket fee is 5,510 yen for a single ride. Nohi Bus of 3 hours is a good alternative for 2,980 yen. Reservation is needed. If you are to visit other towns including Nagoya, Shirakawa-go and Kanazawa, Shoryudo Highway Bus Ticket is strongly advised, which cover all the routes between these towns with a 3-day pass that costs 6,000 yen.