Francesco Sanna, Italian chef. [Photo provided to China Daily]

We got things started with a fine salad of arugula, white champignons, pecorino and lemon dressing, followed by a hearty risotto redolent with Italian sausage, porcini mushrooms, Parmigiano and red wine. It's rich and cheesy but a little much for one person who might hope to follow that with an entree - but perfect to share.

We followed that with pleasing mains that included veal ravioli (cooked very al dente) with butter and sage, and the chef's recommendation: pan-fried sea bass and king crab with zucchini flowers, a beautifully presented dish with delicate flavors that made the chef's seafood passion convincing.

There is also a nice pasta selection, including a lightly garlicked scampi with angel-hair pasta, a studly pair of aromatic king prawns, coriander cream and red caviar. Meatier mains include prime steak cuts, a Mediterranean-style chicken served in a clay pot and braised veal ossobuco with a saffron risotto.

Pizza is a surprise star on the menu, with impeccably thin crust that allows the premium toppings such as Parma ham to shine. We went for the house special, with mozzarella, pancetta, mushrooms, onions, olives, Gorgonzola cheese and garlic on a light swooshing of tomato sauce.