Photo provided to China Daily

Finding what he needs isn't always easy. He cannot find sweetbreads in the market, for example, and vegetables here are sometimes not exactly the way they are in France.

He realizes he needs to adjust both saltiness and sweetness for Chinese customers. Some local patrons find his lobster bisque too strong; he explains it is just more concentrated than they have been used to.

Wolfarth's impression of some French restaurants he has visited in Beijing is that they look like bistros, and there are many dishes that are not so "fine dining".

He says he will try to make Heritage a fine-dining experience. "You will not find noodles here," he says.

Fine dining is meant to be a ritual. Aline Engels, the restaurant's new manager, has worked in the three-Michelin star restaurant L-Arnsbaurg and one-star Chalet Mounier. She will be presenting many of the dishes, printed in gold letters on the menu, a la minute from a cooking cart.

Beef tartare, for example, is mixed well right on the spot. She also makes banana with rum at tableside for a dessert of banana caramelized with old rum, vanilla ice cream and soft chocolate cake.

"Service is part of the eating and dining experience," says Wolfarth. "It's like a theatrical play."

IF YOU GO

Heritage

6/F Wanda Sofitel Beijing, 93 Jianguo Lu (Road), Chaoyang district, Beijing.

010-8599-6666.

Average spending per head: 600 yuan ($97).

Recommended: Half-cooked Salmon with a Base of Sour and Sweet Passion Fruit Sauce, Slow-cooked Lamb Shank with White Beans, and Grandmother's Traditional Fruit Tart.