Tomato ravioli has layers of surprise. [Photo by Mike Peters/China Daily]

Firmly on board now, we dip our spoons into a soup of bamboo pith, in which the netlike fiber floats gracefully in a broth rich with the flavor of Yunnan mushrooms.

That delicate treat was followed by hericium mushroom with mashed rice made macho with spice powder and prettily tied up in bamboo leaf. The mash this produced had the textural heft of meat, though the flavor did not suggest the sort of "fake meat" offered by many vegetarian restaurants that invite you to pretend you are eating duck or pork or fish. As with other dishes, chef Lu is in-your-face about what you're eating; even the minimalist decor works to keep you focused on your plate, as there's not much else to look at. A pinch of bright green bean and a flash of red chili make the whole effect a visual treat as you unwrap the package.

The next course is the aforementioned turnip. More artful presentation, the turnip is rendered as a trio of glistening pearls, gleaming on a bed of savory quinoa. Two bright baby carrots add contrast with their color and texture.

The presentation of spring pancake, meanwhile, invites comparison with Peking duck, with layers of king oyster mushroom, crisp tofu skin, cucumber and soybean paste awaiting our quick roll-up in the pancake. But again, the kitchen doesn't stoop to faux duckery in the filling: the vegetables are very much themselves, and so delectably prepared that you never miss the taste of meat.

The courses are labeled "small delicacies", each little more than a rich bite or three. So while we still have room for two more dishes before dessert, the eight-course set ensures that we won't go hungry, either.