[Photo/The New York Times]

Until recently, I'd drifted away from grainy breakfasts, even though breakfast is a great time of day for whole grains - especially if you exercise first thing in the morning, as I do. Then I rediscovered steel-cut oats and homemade granola.

Lately, I've begun making granola again. It only took one batch to hook my son, who takes a bag of it to school every day as a mid-morning snack. I was inspired by a nifty Web site called www.mixmygranola.com, where users can order up a custom mix of granola beginning with a crisp base of sweetened oats and rice. After selecting your base, you can choose from a wide selection of added dried fruits, nuts and "extras." (Unfortunately there are some questionable options, like M&M's and gummy bears, which negate the virtues of the healthy base). Then they send you the granola with your own customized label.

If you like hot cereal for breakfast and you're not familiar with steel-cut oats, I urge you to try them. Also known as Irish or Scottish oatmeal, steel-cut oats are creamy and chewy at the same time. Since steel-cut oatmeal takes a while to cook and doesn't really work in the microwave, I've been cooking up a pot one night a week, then heating it by the bowl in the morning.

If a bowl of cereal isn't your thing, there are other ways to work whole grains into your breakfast. I add softened rolled oats to buttermilk pancakes and granola to muffins, which are handy if you are a grab-something-and-run sort of breakfast eater.

Granola

I used to make a rich holiday granola, but often it burned and stuck to the baking sheets. One of the reasons: I used wheat germ, which browns more quickly than oats.

Now I keep the heat low in my oven and line my backing sheets with parchment. Be sure to stir the granola every 10 to 15 minutes, and switch the trays from top to bottom each time you stir. If you want to make a smaller amount, you can halve this recipe.

6 cups flaked or rolled oats

2 cups oat bran

1/2 cup flax seeds, coarsely ground

1/2 cup coconut, flaked or shaved (optional)

1 cup chopped nuts (I recommend almonds and pecans)

1/2 to 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (to taste)

2 to 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon (to taste)

1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt (optional)

1/3 cup canola oil

1/2 cup mild honey, such as clover

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 to 2 cups raisins (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment. Toss together all of the dry ingredients except the raisins in a very large bowl. Combine the oil, honey and vanilla in a saucepan or in a measuring cup, and warm over low heat or heat at 50 percent power in a microwave. Do not let the mixture come to a simmer. Stir into the dry ingredients. Stir to coat evenly.

2. Spread the granola mixture on the sheet pans, and bake for about 45 minutes to one hour until golden, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes and switching the pans from lower to middle racks. Remove from the heat, stir in the raisins if using, and allow to cool on the pans. Store in well sealed jars, bags or containers.

Yield: Makes about 2 1/2 quarts.

Advance preparation: This will keep well for several weeks in the freezer.